Monday, April 19, 2010

"The Decadent Hudson River Aristocracy"



                                                         April 19, 1938
     Dear Carl,
           Today I covered the territory between Poughkeepsie and Beacon including Beacon. Beacon used to be called Fishkill  on the   Hudson and many folks   stick to the name  (Fishkill on further back  inland).  It is now so named on account of the  Beacon Mountain.
           The   first town you come to is Wappingers Falls named after the Indians.  A girl and boy who worked on the  Tribune have taken over The  Chronicle there  and I got   a few names from is her.  The town does not appear to have much.    The Mesier family gave their farmhouse in the center of the town and some land, which now houses the  town council room and the welfare offices.  The WCTU have given the usual pump dated 1894 with the inscription “Let him who is thirsty drink.” A little further on I took the road to the right off 9B leading to New Hamburg where  a family named Reese of New York descended. The Mesier family  has a real manor house with a great hall and portraits and   elaborate grounds.  Their landscaping is  in the tradition.   Only the servants were there and they didn't know much but they   said the   old man would be delighted to tell plenty. They  are well heeled I gathered.  I them went on into   the town of New Hamburg and  called on Captain John E. Frazier who was widely known as a Hudson River boat  captain.  It was  one of the many disappointments of the last few days. He is picking daises  and could only show mm that he still had a   license and reel off  names  of ships, say how everybody knew how  well he knew the river.  I am saving Capt. Moses  Collyer[1] because I almost know he will have something and we can pick him up at  Chelsea on our way  to Beacon.
           I tried to get  something out  of New Hamburg because it sounded as though it ought to be good.  The Drakes and Millards settled the town. It is small but has three  churches. The RR rips right thru is and makes house cleaning and sleep hell.  Good shad fishing. Miss Katherine Millard I talked to but  she had nothing but  a curious recipe for Scripture Cake, which  I  copied down. Every ingredient is given a quotation from  the scriptures. The two families    were and   still  are in  the lumber business.  She had save a clip on the  Mary  Powell and was one  of the  ones who were  in love with the ship.  It must  have stopped running about 1913 after 51 years, having started running about  1862.  Only two Captains operated her Father and   son, A.L. Anderson and A.E. Anderson.  Took 27,000 trips,   1,154,000 miles,  and 150,000 passengers  every year. Miss Mallard said  the backbone  is  the best part of  the shad; fewer bones. She rolls  the shad in flour pepper-salt and  fries in Crisco.
           Back to Frazier for minute. He was nearby when the  Sunnyside  sank and a   lady was drowned. He took some people  to see the General Slocum the   next   day after the   accident.  Beefs about Captains Hudson river not   getting any  pension. Companies  cut  them out and Roosevelt has not   been good to them. They resent paying a fee for licenses $10. The companies used  to pay $15O a month then   cut  it to $25 and in 1933  stopped altogether.  Frazier  is receiving state old age pension. Some of the other Hudson River captains  are Ed van Wart of Athens in Green County,  Aerion Rea of Newburgh, Thomas Hillis  of  Kingston,NY and  Mel Hamilton.
           Alfred van Santford  (spelling my be wrong)  was head of the Day Line and the company has always been a family affair. The old man refused to let his boat[2]s run on Sunday because he was very religious and finally consented provided there were services on board.
          I went over to Beacon via Mattawan. Mrs. Van Huyton still hadn’t found the pamphlet on Eustacia. But I went to the next house where Mr. Louis Whittimore[3] lives with his wife and sister, Grace Whittimore. Louisa de Windt married a man named Whittimore and these are her children. Caroline, another sister married AJ Downing. She (Grace) said it  was  strange Downing drowned because he was  en excellent   swimmer. He saved a couple of ladies but one of then he went back for grabbed him and choked him. She allowed as how these days he probably would have known enough to give her  a sock.  Grace is a little  queer but perhaps  if you  see   her you can recall  something to her about  Downing.  Louie Whittimore is very interesting. He said Caroline who married Downing was the only de Windt (the spelling was later changed to having a d in it  as a result of   someone finding   a tomb   in Holland with   the  name spelled that way) who  got a worthwhile husband.  All the others,  he said,   got fortune hunters.    Louisa married a second time to   a man named Clarence Cook who was a newspaperman.
      He showed me a half burned diary, which  was rescued from the old de Windt house.  (John de Windt gave new houses to his daughters as they married on his  place.) They thought  it was John Adams’ diary while at the   Court  of St James. But I soon was reasonably sure it was not. However, it  is   interesting.  It  is probably the diary of John Adams Smith, the  son of Col Wm Stephens Smith and  Abigail Adams,  the John Quincy Adams’  only  child. They had several children one of whom married,  a daughter, married Peter de Windt, son of John.  This John Adams Smith was very self-analyzing and his  dairy is very amusing.  I don't believe it’s been published. It’s dated Report of  1820,  London. He copies down a  letter he presumably wrote and  signs   it J. Adams  Smith.  A book they had said something about  his being in the  diplomatic  service and said  none  of  the  children amounted to very much.  It  is not quite clear why  the diary was there except that he was fond of his   sister  Caroline de Windt or Mrs. Peter de Windt.
      The whole Whittimore family are strange and  seem to like your being around. You have to let them ramble on in their own way and Louie  told all  the family gossip such as Grace's daughter de Lancey being found poisoned by herself in a woods. Had many lovers  and had plenty   of money.
      The Seamans have been bleeding her for all the money they   can  get.    George Seaman's father married the youngest of the de Windt   girls. He is  a closer relative than his wife.  But  she is a "busybody"  says Mr. Whittimore   and maybe she  can  tell us  something. She was supposed to there today.
      The Seaman place is on 9D just before you get into Beacon. It must have been rather lovely once. George Seaman came to the door in his tattered tweeds. He  can’t tell much about  Downing just rambles on about having worked for the telegraph Co. (Mexican) in New York.  Said the sons and daughters of the old places all went away and used to come back only for vacations and weekends. They all went into business in New York. Whittimore said Seaman and his wife kept trying to have boys but it was no use after  they had six or  seven girls. They have absolutely no money and the place is heavily mortgaged. Next to them is some orphan’s home, waiting vulture-like to devour the  Seaman place when they are finally licked.  But you will drop by there  and get the picture. Mrs. Seaman was due back  from New York tonight but when I left she hadn’t  showed up. We'll  catch her over the weekend. Remember we must to mention that Miss Helen Kenyon of Vassar sent us.
The Verplancks
      As  I pulled out of the Seaman I was  terribly depressed. I hadn't got anything with much lift  to it and the picture of the decadent Hudson River aristocracy was  sad.  I took  the road to the famous Verplanck place. On the way  I got  off the road and found myself at the old Newlin place.  I talked to a young housewife who was living in the place and you get the picture.  She was a village girl and her husband's family had bought the place.  She was pleased to be mistress of the big house even though she was  not quite  socially acceptable to the Verplancks and the  old families. She showed me how to  get  to Bayard Verplanck’s place.
      He  is  charming.  He caught on as soon as  I came  in the door and we sat down and  talked and puttered over things  for several hours. He is a local banker in Beacon fairly well-heeled and built the house he is living on about twenty five years ago. It is next door to the remains of the old Verplanck  house built in 1722. It burned down a few years ago. The ruins are still  standing. It is called Mt. Gulian[4] and Col. Knox and some others founded the Society of Cincinnati[5] which, as you know, is composed only of the eldest  sons of the officers of the American Revolutionary Army.
He and his  wife were present several years ago when it burned.  They think some   incendiary did  it as  there was  one  in the neighborhood. When the fire was nearly out they left  a gardener and a constable and another man  in charge to watch it the rest  of the night as  it was still smoldering. Just before sunlight they saw through the stone   window frame a flare  of light. All four men suddenly realized that  it was not the  fire but   that a lady in hoop skirts was holding a candle high in the air while a gentleman in Colonial costume  was hurriedly writing at a desk.  The gardener whose name was Angus McCloud later described the man to  the Verplancks and all agreed that it was Uncle Bill or William E. Verplanck. The  light died down again and that was all they saw.
      Bayard Verplancks's house is built on Spookfield so called because the story that runs  in his family says that when Henry Hudson came up  the river his crew stopped just below the house and came up to a brook that runs through there  to get  fresh water.  They met some Indians  and  one   of the  sailors was trying to make a deal of trading a knife for some furs or something from  the Indian.  They quarreled and the sailor killed the Indian.  On certain nights you  can still see the Indian looking for the sailor and the knife. For generations the plowboys have used the story as an excuse to knock off work promptly at dusk because they claim they are afraid.
      The Verplancks received their land directly from  the Francis Rombout Patent or the Rombout Patent in 1683. They are friends of  Spingarn[6] but you know all  about him. We are to stop in and see Mrs. Samuel Verplanck at her place, Roseneath. Also a  man named Gilland Howland, editor of the Beacon News. Try and read The History of Abraham Isaacs Ver Planck and his male descendents  in American by  William Edward Verplanck 1892.
      The Verplancks had a faithful Negro servant named James F. Brown who served them at Mt Gulian from 1829-64. He kept a diary of  the doings at the house and what his orders were which are several volumes. Mrs. Samuel Verplanck has it, I believe. One night some southern planters were the guests at dinner of the Verplancks and there was a bad row. They demanded that he be returned. The Verplancks and some others raised enough money as a result of the row to pay for James Brown’s freedom.




[1] Captain Moses Collyer was photographed by Marguerite Bourke-White and Croswell Bowen, and provided steam boat stories for Carmer’s The Hudson.
[2] Alfred Van Saantvoord entered the day boat business in 1856, and controlled the New York to Albany business by 1863, the beginning of the Hudson River Day Line. After his death in 1901, his son-in-law, Eben Erskine Olcott continued to grow the line, until it declining traffic in the Depression.
[3] Louie Whittemore, George Seaman and others are melded by Carmer into the interlude with man in tweed knickerbockers in Carmer’s “In a Mountain’s Shadow, “ in The Hudson.
[4] Mount Gulian, hub of the Rombout Patent, was built around 1730, and occupied by members of the Verplanck family until the fire in 1931. It was restored for the 1976 Bi-Centennial. James Brown’s journals reside at NYHS in NYC.
[5] The Society of the Cincinnati, is a fraternal organization, was initially created to support veteran officers of the Revolutionary War with membership limited to direct male descendents of the original officers.
[6] Joel Springarn, former professor of comparative literature at Columbia University in New York, and one of the co-founders of the NAACP in 1916, at the Troutbeck Inn in Amenia, NY, was a friend of Carmer.

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